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Diets & Eating

Seed Oils and the Argument That Keeps Moving

The case against vegetable oils is built from laboratory chemistry, a ratio and a graph of two trends rising together. What it is not built from is the trial evidence, which is old, mixed and rarely quoted.

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This is written to be used rather than admired. Each section below is a decision about the case made against vegetable oils, and each one has a default.

Before you start

  • A ratio between two fat families is not the same as a measured health outcome.
  • Trials that swapped one fat for another are decades old and of variable quality.
  • Fried food and the diets it belongs to are hard to separate from the oil itself.

What the oils are

Oils pressed or extracted from seeds such as rapeseed, sunflower, soy and maize are high in polyunsaturated fats. Most are produced by solvent extraction followed by refining, which removes colour, odour and some minor compounds. That process is unappealing to read about and is not by itself evidence that the product is harmful.

The resulting oils are cheap, neutral in flavour and stable enough for high-temperature cooking, which is why they are everywhere. Their ubiquity is a reason to examine them carefully and not a reason to assume the worst.

The ratio argument

The central claim concerns the balance between two families of polyunsaturated fat and the assertion that modern diets skew heavily towards one. These two families do compete for the same enzymes, which is a real biochemical relationship rather than an invention.

Once you look at who funded it, the step from that relationship to a health outcome is where the argument becomes speculative, because the downstream products do many different things. Attempts to show that lowering the ratio improves outcomes in people have not produced a consistent answer. A ratio is a plausible mechanism awaiting a result, and it has been presented as a result for a long time.

The graph that proves nothing

Charts showing vegetable oil consumption and rates of chronic disease rising together are widely circulated as the main evidence. Almost everything about diet, work, transport, medicine and living conditions changed over the same period. Consumption of many other things rose on identical curves, which is the standard problem with any two rising lines.

This is an ecological correlation, the weakest form of observational evidence, and it cannot support a causal claim about individuals. Anyone using such a chart as their main argument has told you what the stronger evidence looks like.

What the trials actually did

Controlled trials replacing saturated fat with polyunsaturated oils were run mainly in the middle of the last century. They varied enormously in size, duration, population and quality, and several were conducted in institutional settings that are difficult to generalise from.

Follow the mechanism and re-analyses of recovered data from a few of these have produced findings that are still argued about by serious researchers. The overall picture is genuinely mixed, which is a different statement from either side of the popular argument.

Anyone claiming the question is settled in either direction is describing a literature that does not exist.

Oxidation and cooking

Polyunsaturated fats are more prone to oxidation than saturated fats, which is straightforward chemistry. Repeatedly reused frying oil at commercial temperatures does accumulate degradation products, and this is a genuine and measurable concern.

Domestic cooking with fresh oil at ordinary temperatures is a considerably milder situation than industrial repeated frying. Smoke point is often quoted as the deciding factor and is a crude guide, since refining raises it while removing protective minor compounds. The strongest version of this concern is about deep frying practice rather than about the existence of the oil.

Never stop or alter a treatment a clinician has prescribed on the strength of something you have read.

Where the confounding sits

The foods containing most of these oils are fried items, snacks and manufactured products eaten in specific dietary patterns. Separating the oil from the salt, refined starch, portion size and the rest of the diet is extremely difficult observationally.

Against the trial data, people who avoid these oils typically also cook more, eat less manufactured food and pay more attention to their diet generally. Improvement after cutting them out is therefore evidence about a whole change in eating rather than about one ingredient. That is the same confounding problem every single-villain dietary claim runs into, and it is why single villains keep being replaced.

The takeaway

A ratio is a mechanism, a rising graph is a coincidence, and the trials are old and inconclusive. That is a real uncertainty, not a hidden scandal.

An extraordinary mechanism needs better evidence than testimonials, and usually has less.

Questions readers ask

Should I switch to butter or coconut oil?

Both are higher in saturated fat, and most national guidance still advises limiting that. Swapping on the strength of an unsettled argument means acting against the more established one.

Is olive oil different?

It is mainly monounsaturated and comes with minor compounds lost in heavy refining, and the dietary pattern it belongs to has been studied more thoroughly. That is a reasonable basis for preferring it without any villain story.

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Varun Kothari
Contributing writer, Bad Detox

Varun writes about diets and is bored of being asked which one is best.

Also by Varun Kothari